Venice comes alive this weekend for the FestadelRedentore – the Festival of the Redeemer. It takes places on the third weekend of July, and has done each year since 1577. Then, the city was celebrating its deliverance from devastating plague that decimated the population of Venice in the preceding two years, killing 46,000 people.

The focus of the festival is Il Redentore, the Roman Catholic church built by Palladio on the island of Giudeccain the CanaledellaGiudecca. Venice’s most beloved architect was recruited to design this votive church as a long-standing testament to God’s mercy in delivering the Venetians from the plague. It was consecrated in 1592, and for more than three centuries a Mass has been held there during the FestadelRedentore. The Mass is attended by all major officials and any who would give thanks. Pilgrims reach the church in a procession over a 330-metre pontoon bridge built for the festival. The service is deep with tradition and as moving today as I’m sure it was in the 16th century.

Aside from the serious business of thanking God for saving the city, there’s a whole lot of celebrating to be done for the Venetians! The festival is best known for two key events:

• Fireworks: The waterway is lit up, and late evening a spectacular display erupts in the bay of St Marks, lighting up the skyline – and it goes on, and on, and on, for up to an hour! Giudecca Island and Riva degliSchiavoni near St Mark’sSquare offer the best views on land; but on the water you’ll see most Venetians gathering in boats from dusk, their boats decorated with flowers and balloons. The city is alive all night, and boats carrying revellersweave through the canals, before gathering at the Lido to see the sunrise.
• Regattas: People line the canals to watch regattas on the Sunday. In contrast to the solemn religious procession, the regattas bring a joyful air to the city; you can’t fail but be swept up in the spirit of the event. Root for children rowing down the waterways, or admire the procession of quintessentially Venetian gondolas. But don’t for a moment think the regattas are mere frivolity; Venetians take the races very seriously indeed!

Here’s a preview of this year’s event:

If you’re interested in attending the event, the itinerary is as follows:

Saturday, July 19

• 7:00p.m. Opening of the pontoon bridge connecting the Zattere to the Church of the Redentore on the island of Giudecca.
• 11:30p.m. Fireworks in St. Mark’s Bay.

Sunday, July 20

• 4:00p.m. Young people’s pupparini regatta, Giudecca channel.
• 4:45p.m. Puppariniregatta, Giudecca channel.
• 5:30p.m.Gondola regatta, Giudecca channel.
• 7:00 p.m. Mass at the Church of the Redentore.

If you’re in Venice today, don’t miss the free concert at the Church of the Redentore at 8 p.m. by Ensemble MusicaVenezia. It’s to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the First World War, and will include music by Monteverdi, Vivaldi and Handel.